“Fashionable summer on the Polish Baltic coast”
As a serious traveller and writer I seldom visit tourist resorts at the height of the season. However difficult family circumstances kept me in Poland this summer (I live in Warsaw) so I looked about me for something interesting. I happened to be close to the ocean during my longer exploration of beautiful Pomerania and as an Australian yearned for at least a glimpse of the sea and sand for a few days. This resort is famous with film stars and there is a glam film festival each year as well as an interesting walkway where well-known Polish artists have left their hand-prints cast into brass plaques beneath your feet. the rest is fairly predictable tourist summer fun…
The centre of town is absolutely packed in July and August. However not nearly as unpleasant as I anticipated having visited some other truly dreadful Polish resorts along the coast (no names). Villa Modiva is on the beachfront and away from the densest crowds. It is a lovely old villa that has been very tastefully decorated by the owner who I believe is a fashion designer. Restrained pale greys, off-whites and tastefully ‘distressed’ white furniture together with fine black and white fashion photographs adorn the walls to give a cool feeling of holiday relaxation and an outstandingly chic ambience. An excellent breakfast is served in a cool room which opens onto a sunny courtyard with tables with white and timber umbrellas for shade if you prefer to eat breakfast outside.
Our room was very charming, spacious and beautifully furnished with a fabulous bathroom – all Villeroy & Bosch fittings with a brilliant mutinozzle shower cabinet with many different types of water streams – great fun for a couple with imagination! This room is at the rear of the building which is advisable if you are planning a summer break there – noise of happy holidaymakers can briefly burst over you at 2.00 am if you are on the main road in front of the villa. Ask about the size of the room too before you book and then decide. Excellent linen.
There is access to a wonderful lounge room in the tower which is sumptuously and expensively furnished with a view over the Baltic. I could write an entire book there. Casually left on the coffee table was an album of Man Ray photographs which gave a certain refined erotic delight – if you are familiar with Man Ray of course. In a library beneath furnished with a chaiselounge there is a cupboard full of recent Harpers Bazaar magazines and other ultra-fashionable art books and exhibition catalogues if the weather turns nasty. Always important I feel to stay in a charming place you can retreat to and escape boredom if holidaying in northern Europe in summer – anything can happen with the weather!
There is no restaurant at the villa which poses no problem. I had an excellent dinner at a restaurant called ‘Carmen’ in town and from then on ate wonderfully fresh fish at the beach-side tent restaurant called ‘Aquarius’ while watching the sun set. Few people around and rather romantic with excellent cocktails.There is a great range of fresh fish on offer pretty well everywhere in the resort.
The beach near the villa is far less crowded than other areas of the resort closer to the centre particularly at sunset when crowds gather to peacefully watch the sun go down in spectacular fashion as it does over the Baltic. The silhouette of a replica Viking ship moves slowly across the horizon. I watched the romantic sunset every night for the 4 nights we were in residence.
The area around about away from the beach, the hinterland, is fascinating to explore – a bison reserve, forest walks, atmospheric almost deserted river deltas, a quite fantastic replica Viking village and even the remains of the launch ramps for the little known prototypes of the Nazi V3 rocket weapons. Fascinating places to visit which is surely a relief from cooking yourself all day on the sand!
I would say that this villa is possibly the choicest, most comfortable and most fashionable place to stay if you are exploring this resort and its hinterland. I was pleasantly surprised as reports of the resort in summer were not exactly encouraging from my ‘big city’ friends in Warsaw!